6 Reasons Why Your Strawberry Plants Aren’t Fruiting—and How to Fix It Fast, According to a Gardening Pro

There are so many types of strawberries to choose from. Whether you have June-bearing, day-neutral, or ever-bearing plants in your garden, summer should be the time when these fruits are juicy, ripe, and ready for harvest.

If you’ve found yourself wondering why your strawberry plants are not fruiting instead of enjoying fresh snacks, jams, and pies this season, here are a few common causes worth having on your radar—plus how to fix them.

Too Old

Strawberries are perennial plants, which means they flower year after year—but this doesn’t mean they’ll grow fruit for their entire lifespan.

According to gardening expert Tony O’Neill, one of the most common reasons a plant doesn’t fruit is its age.

“Strawberries are most productive in their second and third years, and after that fruiting drops off really fast,” he explains. “Replace them every three years, and propagate your runners in late summer to have replacements ready for the following spring.”

Too Young

On the flip side, you also might not see yield from strawberry plants that are too young. Strawberries spend their first year directing energy towards establishing strong roots instead of growing fruit.

If yours do blossom during year one, pinching off the flowers at their base with your fingers or a pair of pruning shears can encourage bigger fruits in years 2 and 3.

Frost Damage

Although many varieties do best when planted before the last frost, strawberry plants thrive in sunlight and moderate to warm temperatures in the 60-80°F range.

Colder weather and frost exposure during the flowering phase can result in a season without any fruits.

“Initially, the strawberry flowers will still look fine—but if you look at the center after a cold night, the tiny embryonic fruit inside will have turned black,” O’Neill says. “That’s frost damage, and that flower won’t produce a strawberry.”

Although there isn’t anything you can do for recovery once frost damage has happened, you can prevent the problem by covering your flowering strawberry plants on nights where temperatures are expected to drop below 36°F.

Sunlight Levels

As full-sun plants, strawberries need 6-12 hours of direct sunlight per day. Plants in shady areas, blocked by other foliage, or in pots and containers without sun exposure can struggle to photosynthesize.

Make sure to trim back companion plants that might be blocking the sunshine from your strawberries. Move or regularly rotate your strawberry pots to receive even light distribution, and propagate future runners in areas that receive plenty of sun for more successful seasons.

Nitrogen Levels

Strawberries do take well to fertilizer, but using the right type is important. Most standard blends are nitrogen-heavy, which encourages leaf growth instead of fruit.

“What strawberries actually need once flower buds start forming is potassium,” O’Neill shares. “The easiest way to add it is with a tomato feed, which works really well because it’s formulated for fruit production at the flowering stage.”

He recommends starting with an all-purpose fertilizer in your plant’s early stages, then swapping over to a tomato-specific blend once you start to see the first flower buds.

Over- (Or Under-) Watering

To produce the best possible fruits, strawberry plants require an inch of water per week and consistently moist, well-draining soil.

Underwatering will naturally result in dehydrated plants; in warmer weather, containers and pots in particular might require daily checks and watering. Using mulch can also help soil to retain its moisture over the summer.

However, strawberries are also susceptible to root rot, so make sure to avoid over-saturating the soil. Use a well-draining mix to keep plants healthy enough to grow fruits.